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	<title>Balancing Daylight and Flash -</title>
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	<title>Balancing Daylight and Flash -</title>
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		<title>Shooting Tip: Exposing For The Outside While Taking The Shot On The Inside</title>
		<link>https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/shooting-tip-exposing-for-the-outside-while-taking-the-shot-on-the-inside/</link>
					<comments>https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/shooting-tip-exposing-for-the-outside-while-taking-the-shot-on-the-inside/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[David Williams]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 11 Oct 2015 11:51:46 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Photography Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Balancing Daylight and Flash]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[exposing for the outside light then getting the inside light balanced]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[High Speed Sync]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[photography lighting tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[setting the camera to av mode]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[shooting in front of a window with outside light]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dwppc.com/?p=11008</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>The man pictured above was photographed in front of a window on the 11th floor of an office building in Downtown Raleigh, but you can still see the outside building without it being too dark or too light. Although I mention High Speed Sync below, it is NOT always necessary. I shot this with a</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/shooting-tip-exposing-for-the-outside-while-taking-the-shot-on-the-inside/">Shooting Tip: Exposing For The Outside While Taking The Shot On The Inside</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com"></a>.</p>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img fetchpriority="high" decoding="async" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-11009" src="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lawyer-Headshot-in-Downtown-Raleigh-In-Front-of-Window.jpg" alt="Lawyer Headshot in Downtown Raleigh In Front of Window" width="592" height="456" srcset="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lawyer-Headshot-in-Downtown-Raleigh-In-Front-of-Window.jpg 592w, https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Lawyer-Headshot-in-Downtown-Raleigh-In-Front-of-Window-300x231.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 592px) 100vw, 592px" /><br />
The man pictured above was photographed in front of a window on the 11th floor of an office building in Downtown Raleigh, but you can still see the outside building without it being too dark or too light.</p>
<p>Although I mention High Speed Sync below, it is NOT always necessary. I shot this with a studio strobe that does not have a High Speed Sync option. High speed sync is nice when you don&#8217;t want to worry about sync speeds conflicting with your shot.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>This is how you do it and it&#8217;s as easy as 1, 2, 3&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;&#8230;.</strong></span></p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>1&#8230;Expose for the OUTSIDE not the inside&#8230;</strong></span><br />
The problem with exposing for the outside is that you may need High Speed Sync to pull the shot off if the outside exposure based on your ISO and F/stop settings exceeds your camera sync speed. Hint: Start with the ISO at 100 then change as needed.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>2&#8230;Set the Camera on AV mode&#8230;</strong></span><br />
When the camera is on AV mode, you can choose your F/stop and the camera sets the shutter speed. That&#8217;s why High Speed Sync as previously mentioned may be important. You don&#8217;t want to have to worry about sync.</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000;"><strong>3&#8230;The inside light balances with the outside light&#8230;</strong></span><br />
The trick is to get 1 and 2 above all set then make sure the inside light you are using whether speedlite or strobe then balances out the subject with the setting you have in place for the outside. For example, if your settings are 100ISO @F/5.6 @1/125th, you simply have to make sure the inside light fills in the subject. TTL and High Speed Sync (if needed) makes it a little faster, but if a studio strobe will work, it&#8217;s just a matter of adjusting the power until the subject looks exposed properly.</p><p>The post <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/shooting-tip-exposing-for-the-outside-while-taking-the-shot-on-the-inside/">Shooting Tip: Exposing For The Outside While Taking The Shot On The Inside</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com"></a>.</p>]]></content:encoded>
					
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		<title>Using A TTL High Speed Sync Speedlite Outside With Shallow Depth Of Field</title>
		<link>https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/using-a-ttl-high-speed-sync-speedlite-outside-with-shallow-depth-of-field/</link>
					<comments>https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/using-a-ttl-high-speed-sync-speedlite-outside-with-shallow-depth-of-field/#respond</comments>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[David Williams]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Dec 2014 01:00:16 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Photography Lighting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Photography Tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Speedlite / Flash]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Balancing Daylight and Flash]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Flash Photography Outdoors]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[High Speed Sync Outside]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shallow Dept Of Field]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[TTL Flash Outside]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Using a Speedlite Outside]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.dwppc.com/?p=7038</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[<p>The image above was shot outside at 100ISO with the lens nearly wide open at f/3.2 to create the really blurred background. I used a 24 x 24 softbox on a light stand with a Canon 600 Flash set on TTL and High Speed Sync. I had the speedlite (aka: flash) output set a little</p>
<p>The post <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/using-a-ttl-high-speed-sync-speedlite-outside-with-shallow-depth-of-field/">Using A TTL High Speed Sync Speedlite Outside With Shallow Depth Of Field</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com"></a>.</p>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div id="attachment_7040" style="width: 864px" class="wp-caption aligncenter"><img decoding="async" aria-describedby="caption-attachment-7040" class="size-full wp-image-7040" src="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Jeff-Horizontal-Headshot-for-Site.jpg" alt="Jeff Horizontal Headshot for Site" width="854" height="627" srcset="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Jeff-Horizontal-Headshot-for-Site.jpg 854w, https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/Jeff-Horizontal-Headshot-for-Site-300x220.jpg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 854px) 100vw, 854px" /><p id="caption-attachment-7040" class="wp-caption-text"><span class="caption-wrapper">Canon 600 Speedlite With Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 Set At f/3.2 And 200mm</span></p></div>
<p>The image above was shot outside at 100ISO with the lens nearly wide open at f/3.2 to create the really blurred background. I used a 24 x 24 softbox on a light stand with a Canon 600 Flash set on TTL and High Speed Sync. I had the speedlite (aka: flash) output set a little over exposed in camera because that&#8217;s a personal preference of mine. I used the Canon ST-E3-RT on the camera&#8217;s hotshoe to trigger the speedlite off camera.</p>
<p>Using a speedlite (aka: flash) outside can make a difference in the results of your outdoor images and I&#8217;m not referring to the little popup flash on the camera if you have one. To get the best results with outdoor flash photography, you should consider a TTL hotshoe mountable speedlite that will allow high speed sync. This type of speedlite will make it easy to balance the daylight and the flash outside so the lighting doesn&#8217;t look odd. A TTL speedlite communicates with the camera in a way that makes it all work together well.</p>
<p>The high speed sync mode allows you to shoot at faster shutter speeds than normal sync mode will allow. This is important because even outside at 100ISO it&#8217;s easy for the shutter speed to far exceed the sync mode of the camera especially when shooting at an f/stop of 3.2 like the image at the top of this post.</p>
<p>By no means is this post meant to be a complete understanding of TTL and High Speed Sync. If it were that type of post, it would be far longer. However, I do recommend that you use <a href="http://www.youtube.com" target="_blank"><span style="color: #000080;"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">YOUTUBE</span></strong></span></a> to look up TTL Speedlite, Flash Outdoors, High Speed Sync and other relevant terms from this post to help you better understand what has been mentioned above. Watching videos on this subject can help you have a deeper understanding than reading a short blog post.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t be afraid to use a speedlite (aka: flash) outside. If you learn how to do it right, you will likely enjoy many of your portrait related images even more.</p>
<p><strong>If you liked this post, please use the social icons below to SHARE IT.</strong></p><p>The post <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com/using-a-ttl-high-speed-sync-speedlite-outside-with-shallow-depth-of-field/">Using A TTL High Speed Sync Speedlite Outside With Shallow Depth Of Field</a> first appeared on <a href="https://www.rtpphotoandvideo.com"></a>.</p>]]></content:encoded>
					
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